Kitty Cat Snowmobiles

I was looking at the governor bypass directions at Olson Brothers, but cannot figure it out. I understand regarding the loosening of the nut, but cannot figure out where the tie wrap should go. It is not clear in the picture.

Anyone know where the tie wrap should go and what the purpose of it is?

It depends on which engine you have.. I havent messed with the governor on my Kawasaki engines, because I cant Afford a new piston if it comes unglued, and parts arent readily available.

If you have a Suzuki motor, put a small zip strip right through the center of the governor spring and go around the outside of it ..You are basically making it so the spring cant stretch and hence bypassing the governor, you will notice it in the feel of the thottle, it usually wont push as far to the bar.

I am sure there are other ways to bypass it, but that is the only one I know that works, you can vary the how much stretch you have in the spring by how tight you put on the zip strip.. I got the best results when I didnt crank it down to much

I think he is referring to the zip on the shaft where the arm is attached to the governor.

After loosening the bolt that holds the arm on, put a zip tie around the shaft between the metal of the arm. This allows the arm to move the throttle without falling off the governor shaft.

With a little bit of of work you can make a setup that not only bypasses the governor but also gives you full resolution of the throttle. I don't know how to put pictures up on this website but if you send me a PM I will E-mail some to you

TTW, send me the pictures and I can post them if you want.


Old School.

TTW

Could you please send them to me also. kc0rsy@yahoo.com

Anyone still have pics of TTW's mod handy? If so could you please send them to : Dynamicrecovery@comcast.net

I found this on Olson Brothers site http://obups/images/Govenor%20bypass.JPG

Old School

This topic seems to rear its head again...

I've burned out the bearings in two Kittys this year. I have the governors disconnected. I'm trying to figure out what I need to do to keep the probelms from continuing. I can change the inlet needle and jet. Any suggestions on this or anything else to keep these engines from overheating and burning up? Thanks!!

Markbano

Have you tried the slotted connecting rod? I have one in our race Kitty and it has held together great. We run our mixture a little more rich, and ensure the drivetrain is freed up, if not it can cause a lot of drag causing the engine to work harder. I would put in the 2.0 needle seat which you can get from www.etigersales.com. Leave in the 72.5 main jet, this will ensure you have plenty of fuel/oil mix going into the engine for lubrication. Hope this helps.

Freezing my a-- off in Northern MN.

If you by-pass the governor you will certainly burn up the lower rod bearing no matter what you do to the carb or evening adding more oil....there just no room for the fuel to wash into the lower rod at the higher rpm's.....motor is designed to run at 6000 rpm or less and will run for yrs....when you by-pass the gov the motor will rev 9000+ rpm...actual race kitty's are reving to 11,000....There is no slot in the rod and the rod to bearing to lower pin clearance is tight .0008(.02032mm)....when you purchase the slotted rod from A/C or a suzuki dealer the clearance is still tight....the lower rod still needs to honed out to .0013 to .0015(.03302 to .0381mm) of clearance then you are good to go....anytime someone talks to me about by-passing the gov I caution them that they are headed for diasater.....then they think twice...you still will need to put a bigger needle and sat in the carb as it needs the fuel fitting at the higher rpm because it gravity feeding...I even think the final ID bore of the lower rod after honing is .8684(22.05mm).......I think......I could check that for sure if you guys want.........Hope I shed some light on the subject

Bill

Thanks guys. I think it is important that this information is posted. I removed the governors from my boys' machines and it has cost me two engine rebuilds now. I had no warning - at least from the discussions on this website - that this was going to be a problem. I'm glad that everyone is now warned about it.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to proceed. I was hoping a richer mixture might solve my problem. I don't want to burn out the engine I just rebuilt and I don't want to burn out the one I'm about to rebuild. It is a lot of time and effort, not to mention money.

Perhaps I'll put the governors back on, although I know the boys will be a bit dissapointed.

Thanks for all of the valuable input!

Markbano

markbano....pm me and I will give you my cell #.....see if we could workout the problem.......you are not to far from me

HEY BILL DIAL ME UP AT 262-565-3787. I GOT A BUNCH
OF QUESTIONS FOR YOU


BILL ROCKS!!!

More on the governor bypass issue.

I've just finished rebuilding my second kitty cat engine this winter, and while I enjoy it, I don't want to do it again. Thus, I put the governors back on both of my boys' machines. The fact is - to me, at least - it does not appear that they are going that much slower with the governors hooked up - maybe 3MPH slower. My advice to members of the forum...leave the governor on for normal, backyard applications. The machines sound better, they don't get hot, they don't bog, and most of all they don't (thus far) burn out the lower rod bearing. They are happy at 6000 RPM - not so happy at 9000+ with the stock setup, sans governor.

My boys quickly got used to the slightly lower speed and they've had a blast on their machines all weekend. I don't know if anyone has ever checked to see how much speed you get by removing the governor but it does not seem worth it to me based on my experience just watching the boys go around the yard. There is a difference - it just is not a big difference. It is reassuring to see that governor swing the throttle back and protect the engine!

BTW - I'm also running the machines at 36:1 instead of 50:1 and they run just fine - better, in fact.

My advice, for whatever it is worth, is to leave the governors hooked up and run 36:1 or 40:1 (but not 50:1) for backyard action. If you're racing, then the slotted connecting rod and changed out needle valve and jet would probably be worthwhile. Otherwise, a slightly rich fuel/oil mix and the governor hooked up should give much better service. I'm concerned that others - like me - will see posts about removing the governor and fail to appreciate the damage that they might do to their engine by disconnecting it - especially if they are running 50:1 with the governor removed. That is a recipe for disaster, and I just didn't realize it because I never read it anywhere on here.

Happy snowmobiling!

MarkBano

Jonn from etigersales has different gears for these machines to make them go faster with the governor hooked up. Somewhere in the mid to high 30's is good for the back yard burner to get a little more speed out of it. The difference in speed with governor hooked up and disconnected depends on what year and what engine it has. I have seen the Suzuki win more races than the Kawasaki in the improved class.