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motor swap to honda g150

Kitty Cat chat area, almost anything goes but keep it clean and snowmobile related.

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beef
Posts: 20
Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 pm

motor swap to honda g150

Post by beef »

Anyone seen or used one of these in a kitty cat or on anything else for that matter? cant find much info. Nameplate says 144cc / 3.8hp. Was originally from a gas powered water pump.

thanks

Beef
MachJeff
Posts: 79
Joined: September 21st, 2005, 4:08 pm
Location: Mb. Canada

Post by MachJeff »

It would be the same as swapping to a GX120, GX200, clone, or any other 4-stroke motor. Each engine swap will be unique depending on how you want to do it and your abilities, but there are plenty of threads on this and other forums to use as a guide.

After having done a briggs 4-stroke swap, I would never consider investing any money into a broken stock kitty motor.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

yeh Jeff,

agree on dumping $$$ old kitty motor. Ive had mine for 2 years and had a bad coil when I got it. 1972. I had to dig up a grave to find one! LOL

And then that one went bad - So I sold two fingers to a Witch and got a NOS on ebay. So far all is good but, no snow. But i'm gonna get that Predator 99cc in the future.
Mike Barry
beef
Posts: 20
Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 pm

Post by beef »

Yeah, no interest in putting money into the 60. the kids outgrew that in the first few weeks of riding.

I'd love to buy a z120 for my daughter but it's not in the budget. A motor swap is no big deal.

Mostly just wondering if anyone has any experience/tips with this motor.
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

If Im not mistaken, the g150 is a flat head engine. While a good engine, I would hate to have to find replacement or repair parts for it. The parts are out there but with its age, it could be a rather expensive venture to keep it going. Just a thought.

You may never need one, but consider what a piston or rod would cost? I doubt thats cheaper than some of the other options out there. I will be looking for the vids if you get it to work.
beef
Posts: 20
Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 pm

Post by beef »

The motor is like brand new. Was rescued from the scrap metal bin and after extracting and replacing a few broken bolts and a thorough carb cleaning it came right back to life. As far as I'm concerned it's disposable... That is to say it doesnt owe me anything and I wouldn't lose any sleep if it blew up and I couldn't find parts. Just find something else to swap in its place.

I'm wondering If I can/should bypass the governor?? It doesn't have much of an rpm range. I know this typically shortens the lifespan of the motor. Not sure if it'll have enough rpm if I don't though?
MachJeff
Posts: 79
Joined: September 21st, 2005, 4:08 pm
Location: Mb. Canada

Post by MachJeff »

You'll definitely want to bypass the governor. Take all the linkages off, and if it is a mechanical governor, open the side of the engine and take the internal gears out. When you make up a throttle linkage for it, provide some sort of adjustable stop so you can set how far the throttle will open. Then just limit the throttle to wherever you feel comfortable. The engine will likely not rev up dangerously high anyway because the valves will start floating first and you'll lose power.
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

beef wrote:The motor is like brand new. Was rescued from the scrap metal bin and after extracting and replacing a few broken bolts and a thorough carb cleaning it came right back to life. As far as I'm concerned it's disposable... That is to say it doesnt owe me anything and I wouldn't lose any sleep if it blew up and I couldn't find parts. Just find something else to swap in its place.

I'm wondering If I can/should bypass the governor?? It doesn't have much of an rpm range. I know this typically shortens the lifespan of the motor. Not sure if it'll have enough rpm if I don't though?

Cant beat free! Your already ahead of the game. A stock kitty only twists around 3000 rps max at the pto, so anything above that will be an improvement. Make sure a clutch will fit the pto, some of those pto's are metric.
Jonn
Posts: 132
Joined: February 6th, 2005, 12:36 am
Location: North of MPLS/St. Paul

KC Engine Replacement

Post by Jonn »

As an FYI, I will have a complete engine replacement kit available this summer for the Kitty Cats. There's a little more to replacing these engines than just mounting the engine, so all of the extras will be included in the kit with detailed directions and an installation video on-line.

The reason I decided to create an economical engine kit is that I receive lots of requests for Kawasaki parts that I can't fill because the parts don't exist anymore. Anything you can find is too expensive for what you end up with. I worked with Wiseco to reproduce the piston kits, but each kit was going to cost me $138 before I marked them up. A replacement carb is $160. We can't find coils unless they're used. And the list goes on. At least for those who install this kit they won't have to worry about engine problems anymore or expensive repairs.

I'll put a post on the forum when it's ready.

Jonn
Olson Brothers Dist, Inc.
beef
Posts: 20
Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 pm

Post by beef »

The output shaft of the motor is threaded for the water pump impeller, I'll need to machine a stub shaft to accept a clutch similar to this one...

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product ... ain-Clutch

Depending how much room I can squeeze out I'll probably make this shaft adapter slightly longer so I can use a kit similar to this for stopping...

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product ... sembly-Kit
MachJeff
Posts: 79
Joined: September 21st, 2005, 4:08 pm
Location: Mb. Canada

Post by MachJeff »

Can you post a picture of your motor?

The disk brake will not work if you are putting it on the output shaft of the motor, everytime you hit the brakes it will stall the motor.

The band-brakes work because they grab the outer part of the clutch which allows the motor to keep turning.

Disc brakes either go on a jack shaft or right on the drive axle. You could make a longer drive axle and put it on the side of the tunnel, but you will lose room for your feet.
beef
Posts: 20
Joined: December 22nd, 2008, 9:36 pm

Post by beef »

I didn't consider the brake stopping the motor... crap... better to find out now then later. Band brake it is.

Here's a pic from google... basically identical to this

http://world.honda.com/history/challeng ... pho_01.jpg
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