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Posted: November 13th, 2010, 4:02 pm
by SlackerP488
If the coil is grounding out internally, When I put my hands on the plug

Am i reversing something? to get zapped

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 4:06 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:kill wire disconnected & the head bolt clean, when I hold it to the head bolt

and hand on the top and bottom I'll get the shock...

When I hold it the same way and put it on the head (threads for the plug)

I don't get shocked.
What do you mean by hand on top and bottom? Just tape or clamp the plug to something metal on the engine. Its not worth gwtting shock like that.

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 4:12 pm
by SlackerP488
10-4 will work on that now report back in a bit.

Thanks 72 - whats your name by the way.

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 4:18 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:If the coil is grounding out internally, When I put my hands on the plug

Am i reversing something? to get zapped


The electricity is going through you to get to ground instead of jumping the plugs gap and going to ground. You are creating an easier path for the electricity to travel.

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 4:20 pm
by SlackerP488
so the zapping means the coil, points, condensor is working? maybe

loosing its punch through the wire? it is 38 years old. rubber dosent last

for ever

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 4:25 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:10-4 will work on that now report back in a bit.

Thanks 72 - whats your name by the way.

John

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 4:33 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:so the zapping means the coil, points, condensor is working? maybe

loosing its punch through the wire? it is 38 years old. rubber dosent last

for ever
Yep, your getting it before the plug.

The last post on page 3 of this thread covers that, another option could be some heat shrink tubeing, or maybe your small engine buddy could splice a new wire and boot on it for you.

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 5:29 pm
by SlackerP488
welp I used heat shrink on the whole wire , from core to top. no go

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 5:45 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:welp I used heat shrink on the whole wire , from core to top. no go
Are you still getting zapped? Take a meter reading from plugwire to ground then connect the plug to the wire and take a reading from the plugs electrode to ground, they should be the same.

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 6:12 pm
by SlackerP488
of course ill get zapped

ground to plug wire 5.72 little lower than before

ground to bottom of spark plug 11.00 than retest it that way I get .ol

it changes back and forth from .ol to 11. when I move the plug wire back

& forth.. But When I take the plug out I get the 5.72 and dosent matter if I

I move the wire back and forth

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 7:10 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:of course ill get zapped

ground to plug wire 5.72 little lower than before

ground to bottom of spark plug 11.00 than retest it that way I get .ol

it changes back and forth from .ol to 11. when I move the plug wire back

& forth.. But When I take the plug out I get the 5.72 and dosent matter if I

I move the wire back and forth

That tells me you are loseing connection at the plug. The 11 is the resistance of the plug and coil tegether the ol is an open circuit.

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 7:12 pm
by SlackerP488
Now i dont have the plug end on. Just the wire

Posted: November 13th, 2010, 7:23 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:Now i dont have the plug end on. Just the wire
your gonna want to fix that.

Posted: November 14th, 2010, 12:54 pm
by 72
To avoid any confusion, the coil has around 5.7K ohms and the plug being the resistor type has 4.5-5K ohms. Thats what you get around 11K when testing through the plug and coil to ground.

Posted: November 15th, 2010, 5:11 pm
by SlackerP488
Thanks John, 72er

Brain is fried on this... will look all threw the treads and keep trying to

figure whats wrong. I thank you for your time on this and will keep you

posted.

Mike

Posted: November 29th, 2010, 7:20 pm
by blaster
Mike give me a call I might be able to help you out

Roger 570-491-5812

Posted: December 10th, 2010, 9:27 pm
by SlackerP488
hey 72,

Wanted to give ya a heads up.. I found a used whole stator at a arctic cat salvage yard .. put in it a spark all the way... running really good..

Thanks for all your effort on helping me to figure out what was wrong.

But i still have a question. Does the transmission or gear box hold fluid in it ? what kind and how much if you know.

Hey Man thanks for all your help.

Slacker!

Posted: December 11th, 2010, 10:14 am
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:hey 72,

Wanted to give ya a heads up.. I found a used whole stator at a arctic cat salvage yard .. put in it a spark all the way... running really good..

Thanks for all your effort on helping me to figure out what was wrong.

But i still have a question. Does the transmission or gear box hold fluid in it ? what kind and how much if you know.

Hey Man thanks for all your help.

Slacker!

Glad to hear ya got it running, too bad you had to go out and buy parts but at least you were able to find them.

The gearbox has fill, drain and level holes, they are the screws on the side cover with red seal washers. You can use 5-30, 10-30 or 30w oil. Just fill untill it comes out the level hole.

grey coil

Posted: December 19th, 2010, 10:56 am
by brad dodge
i had a bad condensor and had issues as well like this the coils are real hard to find you may have to buy a parts engine to get one bd

coil

Posted: March 23rd, 2011, 8:27 pm
by brad dodge
the condensors are a problem as well and wiring to the points gets crispy i had one with a bad condensor that would heat up and shut off. My two cent i had a guy that fixed thesecoils but cant find him any more brad