We will be refreshing and updating the forum over the next few weeks. You can still register and talk sleds...

1972 Kitty Kawasaki coil oms

Kawasaki or Suzuki, assembly, disassembly, troubleshooting questions.

Moderators: Old School, harryparatestis

72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:with out the coil i get the

open .OL

closed .02

Yep,thats what you should have.
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:Now remember i have no kill or key switch where should the little wire from the coil go to ground or no ground. The readings i posted where with out ground


No ground= run, grounded =off, all I can say is that something changed from what you had before and im kinda stumped.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

Could be me relaying it to you. My buddies brothrr in law does small engine repair. He said it was the coil. Getting the ground from there. There is a small area that has black spot on the exterior , maybe a burn mark? Do you have a coil to sell?
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

At this point im willing to change all. But no parts anywhere
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

do you know if the coil, where it mounts screw on each side should have some no metal spacer/washer from the assembly that holds all the stuff.

getting a ground from there? looking at the points close up I don;t see any cracks on the brown non conductive parts
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:Could be me relaying it to you. My buddies brothrr in law does small engine repair. He said it was the coil. Getting the ground from there. There is a small area that has black spot on the exterior , maybe a burn mark? Do you have a coil to sell?
Nope none to sell (wish I did), its a low reading but higher than a direct short showing that there is some resistance in the primary windings. If memory serves correct I would only get 1-2. So your not too far off and everything seems to be working correct now. Take a close look at the location of that burn mark, see any holes in the insulation? I would put it together and check for spark.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

nope no holes just small little black circles - 2 this size of pinkie finger.

Will put back together and try.

Thanks a bunch - will report back
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:do you know if the coil, where it mounts screw on each side should have some no metal spacer/washer from the assembly that holds all the stuff.

getting a ground from there? looking at the points close up I don;t see any cracks on the brown non conductive parts
The coils core is soupose to be grounded to the plate.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

well 72

I put back together and no spark...

The weird thing is when I hold the spark plug on the top and bottom than

hold it on the head nut I get a major zap, not a pinch a good healthy zap.

Does it need more than a nasty shock to get spark?

Am I making some kind of ground issue, it's a brand new plug
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:well 72

I put back together and no spark...

The weird thing is when I hold the spark plug on the top and bottom than

hold it on the head nut I get a major zap, not a pinch a good healthy zap.

Does it need more than a nasty shock to get spark?

Am I making some kind of ground issue, it's a brand new plug

If the plug wire has a spark plug cap, hold just the cap and touch the plug to something metal on the engine when checking for spark. If your getting zapped that good it sounds like its working. Getting zapped like that is not good for your heart so be careful, try not to touch anything metal when checking. I sometimes use a little spring clamp to hold / clamp the plug to the engine when checking.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

took the ground wire with aligator clips and clipped it to the head and got

1 spark from the spark plug. just 1.

Also If I hold the kill wire from the coil & hold the top of the plug I also

get a major zap that way as well(one hand)
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

per your last post. yes, with holding plug wire with spark plug in it &

holding on head of engine.
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:took the ground wire with aligator clips and clipped it to the head and got

1 spark from the spark plug. just 1.

Also If I hold the kill wire from the coil & hold the top of the plug I also

get a major zap that way as well(one hand)
Just tape off the kill wire for now and dont touch it to anything, Make sure what ever metal surface the plug is grounding to is clean.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

kill wire disconnected & the head bolt clean, when I hold it to the head bolt

and hand on the top and bottom I'll get the shock...

When I hold it the same way and put it on the head (threads for the plug)

I don't get shocked.
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:per your last post. yes, with holding plug wire with spark plug in it &

holding on head of engine.
If your holding the wire and the plug is grounded to the head and your getting shocked the insulation for the wire is probley rotted and leaking through to your hand I would check to make sure you have a good connection between the plug wire and plug then give the entire plug wire a couple wraps with electrical tape or remove the boot and slip some tubing over the wire.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

If the coil is grounding out internally, When I put my hands on the plug

Am i reversing something? to get zapped
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:kill wire disconnected & the head bolt clean, when I hold it to the head bolt

and hand on the top and bottom I'll get the shock...

When I hold it the same way and put it on the head (threads for the plug)

I don't get shocked.
What do you mean by hand on top and bottom? Just tape or clamp the plug to something metal on the engine. Its not worth gwtting shock like that.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

10-4 will work on that now report back in a bit.

Thanks 72 - whats your name by the way.
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:If the coil is grounding out internally, When I put my hands on the plug

Am i reversing something? to get zapped


The electricity is going through you to get to ground instead of jumping the plugs gap and going to ground. You are creating an easier path for the electricity to travel.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

so the zapping means the coil, points, condensor is working? maybe

loosing its punch through the wire? it is 38 years old. rubber dosent last

for ever
Mike Barry
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest