Carb Removal?

[steve0]

Hello, I recently purchased a 1995/1996 Kitty Kat. The build date is 1995, so it that a model year 1995 or 1996?

It starts up just fine and runs for a while then seems like it's starving for fuel then dies. If I wait about 10 minutes it will restart. I'm thinking it's a carb issue. What is the best way to remove the carb so that I may clean it? It seems a little tight under the hood!

Also, regarding the fuel shutoff. When I have the shutoff turn all the way in(as if the fuel was off) the Kitty runs ok. When I turn the shutoff out to turn the fuel on fuel drips out of the carb gaskets on the side of the carb where the "spacer" is. By this I mean from the carb there is a gasket, then this spacer, then another gasket. Obviously this isn't normal. How do I go about fixing it?

Any information regarding any of the above would be very helpful.


Thanks in advance,

Steve

[snoeproe]

Remove the plastic dash/shroud.
Remove the air box from the carb.
Remove the fuel line, throttle cable and any springs etc...
With a 10mm wrench, loosen off the carb mount bolts and remove the carb.
It sounds like your needle/seat and or float is sticking.

[steve0]

Remove the plastic dash/shroud.
Remove the air box from the carb.
Remove the fuel line, throttle cable and any springs etc...
With a 10mm wrench, loosen off the carb mount bolts and remove the carb.
It sounds like your needle/seat and or float is sticking.

Great! Thanks for the reply. Are the needle/seat and float able to be cleaned or should they be replaced?

Would this situation also be related to the shutoff issue I am experiencing?

Thank you again for the quick reply.

-Steve

[snoeproe]

Needle and seat assembly can be cleaned. Make sure the pilot circuit is clear as well. I prefer to use compressed air to ensure all circuits are clear.
Incorrect float height (which controls the needle assembly) can cause the symptoms you are describing.

When removing the line, cable and springs from the carb, any linkages should be removed as well.

[steve0]

Needle and seat assembly can be cleaned. Make sure the pilot circuit is clear as well. I prefer to use compressed air to ensure all circuits are clear.
Incorrect float height (which controls the needle assembly) can cause the symptoms you are describing.

When removing the line, cable and springs from the carb, any linkages should be removed as well.

Thanks again. What's a pilot circuit?

-Steve

[steve0]

I removed the carb and cleaned everything real good. I replaced the carb and the problem persists. The needle and float looked to be in good condition. I shook the float and it didn't have any fuel in, so I'm pretty sure that's ok.

I just don't know what to do now, other than replacing the carb.

Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

[Jonn]

It sounds like the float isn't set correctly. If the float doesn't completely push the needle into the seat it won't shut off the fuel flow. Then the gas has nowhere else to go but out the vent hole. I've attached a picture that shows how to set your float.

Something you should do before you set the float is to put some carb cleaner on a cue-tip and clean the faces of both the needle and seat. Sometimes gas residue can build up on the surfaces and keep the needle from seating. Then set the float.

If that doesn't fix it, then you may want to change out the needle and seat for $25. Of course, this would only be for the '77 to '99 Kitty Cats with the Mikuni carb. There is no needle & seat available for the Kawasaki carb of the '72 and '73.

Then if those tips don't help, the a carb replacement might be in order. You have two choices. 1) Purchase and install a new OEM Mikuni carb for approximately $139 (new retail is almost $150 now). This option is quicker, easier and cheaper to do as it simply replaces your carb and all linkages hook up the same. 2) Purchase and install a new 18mm Mikuni carb kit for $170. This option is a little more expensive and is a little more envolved. The kit comes with everything you need to install it, but it does require you to drill a hole in the crankcase to install a pulse adapter for the fuel pump. Also, since you need to use the 18mm throttle cable it bypasses all the governor linkages and you have to remove it. Note: The 18mm carb works nice but is a little harder to set up with jetting and won't get you much more performance over the OEM carb unless cylinder porting and the exhaust is modified.

I hope this helped you.

[kidsperformance]

I think there might be a few unanswered ?'s here....what fuel are you running and what oil ratio?? Do you have the governor tied open??.* previous post I've wrote you have to careful on what fuel you are useing when the govenor is tied open,if it is....it then becomes a fuel distlation issue...plus if you haven't updated the lower rod you are headed for disaster as you will burn it up...if the governor is tied open there a few more things you need to do also....tear the screen out from inside the tank...put a good in line fuel filter in and you will need to put a 2.0 needle and seat in the carb and have to readjust the float....remember like I said if you don't update the lower end I promise you it will burn up....seen this happen for almost 20yrs now...also if governor is tied open you will also need to put in a colder plug like a B8 range NGK....leave the governor hooked up and I've seen motors that have been running 15+yrs

[steve0]

Hello again, Thanks for the continued information. I do have an update.

I cleaned the carb one more, this time I cleaned the needle/seat. I did not do it before because I was a bit worried about ruining the whole thing, but I thought at this point I had nothing to lose.

Anyway, I cleaned everything again and reassembled everything. The carb stopped leaking fuel through the vent hole or anywhere. The machine is running decent, but still not great. At idle, it will often stall out. When it begins to stall and use the throttle to try to keep it going, it always stalls out.

I'm thinking that maybe the low speed jet needs adjustment?? Any information on that would be appreciated.

As far as the fuel is concerned I am using 89 octane, with a 50:1 mix ratio.

I do not believe the governor is tied out. I don't see anything that would make me believe that it is. There are no zip ties on any of the linkages.

Is there something else I should be looking for to see if the governor is bypassed?

We had a good run of running today! My 5 year old really took to it well and is having a blast. If it wasn't for the stalling the day would've been perfect!


Thanks again everyone,

Steve

[kidsperformance]

the air screw starting point is 1 1/2 turns out....go from there....someone could have stopped the govenor from working from the inside,if it used to be a racing kitty cat in stock form....if the govenor is still hooked up the motor won't rev over 6000 RPM....the stalling is still a heat issue or starving.....if it runs a while and then stalls...it's a heat issue.....with all the alky based fuels nowadays these motor are not designed to run on them...these are old engine back in the 60's and you know what fuel we had back then...I know I remember cuz I'm a lil older...see it all the time...esp we are into the winter blends at the gas pump....may want to try a colder plug like a 7 or 8 range(NGK)

[steve0]

the air screw starting point is 1 1/2 turns out....go from there....someone could have stopped the govenor from working from the inside,if it used to be a racing kitty cat in stock form....if the govenor is still hooked up the motor won't rev over 6000 RPM....the stalling is still a heat issue or starving.....if it runs a while and then stalls...it's a heat issue.....with all the alky based fuels nowadays these motor are not designed to run on them...these are old engine back in the 60's and you know what fuel we had back then...I know I remember cuz I'm a lil older...see it all the time...esp we are into the winter blends at the gas pump....may want to try a colder plug like a 7 or 8 range(NGK)

Thanks for the information. I read the manual and the machine is at 1 1/2 turns out now. We haven't run it for any length of time since I adjust the screw. It was probably out about 3 turns when I checked it. Is this the way the governor is stopped from the inside?

Also, in terms of the heat issue. Will a cooler plug help with that, or is something else going on? What would be the exact plug number I would be looking for?

Thank you again,

Steve

[kidsperformance]

3 turns out will cause it to bog.....the way to find out if the governor is working is when you hold the back of the sled up and hold the throttle wide open you will see the carb linkage on top flutter back and forth....like it's surging....that's good thing...if it revs to the sky as it's gasping for every last breath that will tell you the governor has been by-passed....hope this helps

[steve0]

3 turns out will cause it to bog.....the way to find out if the governor is working is when you hold the back of the sled up and hold the throttle wide open you will see the carb linkage on top flutter back and forth....like it's surging....that's good thing...if it revs to the sky as it's gasping for every last breath that will tell you the governor has been by-passed....hope this helps

Hello and thanks for the information. Well, it appears the governor is bypassed. I did as you said above and the linkage on top stays steady as can be. When it's idle it does surge back and forth.

The linkage I have has a bar and spring. Is this correct? Does the bar and spring go in the same hole? Mine has it where the spring is in the larger hole and the bar in the smaller hole. How do I remove the linkage bypass?

Thank you again,

Steve

[steve0]

I'm still having some sort of issue, that is making me a little crazy!

The machine starts up fine and runs fine until it needs to idle or if it gets stuck in snow. When idling or getting stucks it just quits. One pull and we're back in business.

The other thing I noticed is that when I do start it I need to apply the brake or it will take off. Almost like it's "revving" up to high.

I'm pretty close to going to a dealer for service, but I don't really want to do that, if it's something I can fix on my own.

When it runs, my son is having a blast and really getting the hang of it.

Thanks again,

Steve