Some things I have learned with the 72 restoration
Posted: December 25th, 2017, 11:02 am
In my restoration I have learned a few things specific to the Kawasaki A style engine.
You can have a good coil, condenser, and points yet get no spark at the plug.
Ignition timing is crucial to get spark! Point gap also!
I thought my coil was bad even though it ohm checked at 5800.
There is a wire on the coil that is soldered to the coil core under the little plastic flap of the coil cover. It can come loose, and need resoldered something to check.
Another note is in looking at the parts diagram it appears that the kill wire is attached to the coil. It is not it goes to the top of the condenser. Something when you get a machine someone else had, and your not sure what was done by them 40 years ago.
Clean those carbs! On the carb is the tickler. It’s a vertical Spring loaded screw on the left side of carb. Pushing down holds the float down to allow more gas in the engine while starting if needed. A well tuned engine doesn’t need it though.
All 72’s had a keyed ignition. Apparently they were problematic. That’s why a lot are missing.
Another thing to check is if the crank case drain screw is missing. This is located next to the engine date tag on the bottom left side of the engine. Mine was missing. Once you get spark, and the engine starts it will only idle with choke on. Similar symptoms to crank case seals leaking. I noticed the hole with out the screw, but initially thought it was just an extra hole in the casting.
Most of this was learned through a contact I made in my quest for a coil. I have the gentleman’s phone number if needed. He’s a wiz with these engines.he owns 20kitty cats. I ended up sending him the engine out of frustration. Thanks Fred!
If you can save these A style engines they are highly sought after as I have seen them go for 460.00 on eBay in running condition! Putting some dollars into them is worth it.
You can have a good coil, condenser, and points yet get no spark at the plug.
Ignition timing is crucial to get spark! Point gap also!
I thought my coil was bad even though it ohm checked at 5800.
There is a wire on the coil that is soldered to the coil core under the little plastic flap of the coil cover. It can come loose, and need resoldered something to check.
Another note is in looking at the parts diagram it appears that the kill wire is attached to the coil. It is not it goes to the top of the condenser. Something when you get a machine someone else had, and your not sure what was done by them 40 years ago.
Clean those carbs! On the carb is the tickler. It’s a vertical Spring loaded screw on the left side of carb. Pushing down holds the float down to allow more gas in the engine while starting if needed. A well tuned engine doesn’t need it though.
All 72’s had a keyed ignition. Apparently they were problematic. That’s why a lot are missing.
Another thing to check is if the crank case drain screw is missing. This is located next to the engine date tag on the bottom left side of the engine. Mine was missing. Once you get spark, and the engine starts it will only idle with choke on. Similar symptoms to crank case seals leaking. I noticed the hole with out the screw, but initially thought it was just an extra hole in the casting.
Most of this was learned through a contact I made in my quest for a coil. I have the gentleman’s phone number if needed. He’s a wiz with these engines.he owns 20kitty cats. I ended up sending him the engine out of frustration. Thanks Fred!
If you can save these A style engines they are highly sought after as I have seen them go for 460.00 on eBay in running condition! Putting some dollars into them is worth it.