I got the condenser cross reference #300-900, now anyone know how to hook it up? Condenser has two tabs does the longer one go to the coil and the shorter to the contact rotor?
Thanks for any help!
When I checked the coil as you had shown in your diagram in anther post I found one side I had 6.04k ohms instead of 2.9k-4.1k ohms the other 0.0 instead of .3-1.2 ohms.
Thats a tough call, the secondary side (6.04K) seems high but more than likely is good, typically this type of coil is going to blow open or short close(much lower reading) on the secondary side. The primary side should show a little resistance (not 0.0). Was the coil disconnected from the condenser and kill switch when tested? I would throw it together and check for voltage out at the kill switch wire (while pull starting with the condenser disconnected ) if there was any question of the primary side being bad. Hope this helps.
I'll give it a shot for voltage any particular number I'm looking for? The kill switch is disconnected also should I just use the wire black from the coil?
Yep, the black wire from the coil is for the kill switch. I just drag it on the engine case while pulling it over and look for spark. Should be around 6-9volts if you want to measure it.
I just put it together and checked for spark and nothing. I'm not sure if I have the points and timing set up right.
Whats the correct way to set up the points? Anyone? I think the specs are 16-18 gap; 20 BTDC does this sound right on the T5A? Where do you set the point gap on top of the lobe or bottom? What does the T and F mean on the flywheel T for TDC and F for Full Advance?
I have lots of questions just trying to learn the correct way to do things, many thanks for the help!!!
It does have spark draging the kill switch black wire across the case as you described while pulling it over 72. This is with everything hooked up, however there is still no spark at the sparkplug.
Would this be good or bad? I'm still not sure on the points.
Thanks!!!
It tells me that the primary side of the coil is good. .016-.020" should be good on the point gap (and this is at the peak of the cam lobe). As far as timing goes.... there should be some match marks on the ignition plate and the cases. Line these up and you should be close enough. If you still have no spark after this, turn the lights off and pull it over and look to see if it might be shorting somewhere (plug wire). Where in Michigan are you located? If you are not too far I might stop by and take a look.
Yeah I hit the light last night but could not see any spark from the plug, it may just be too faint at this point.
The only timing marks I can find are the T and F on the flywheel. There is a hash mark on the top of the case inline with the rod and piston. Other than that nothing visable that I can find.
Just southwest of Lansing about 15 miles from I96. Many Thanks!!!
Yeah, your too far away for me to make that trip (im by the Ohio line). I could be confused about the timing marks, I might be thinking about the t5b engine and i dont have a t5a thats apart to look at . If you cannot find any marks on the outside (by the edge) of the plate that match up with a mark on the case then just set the plate in the mid point of the plates mounting slots, It should be close enough to get running. If you have a chance put your meter leads on the kill switch wire and the tab on the coil, you should have the same reading as touching the probes of your meter together. If your points dont cycle open and closed you wont get any spark, make sure the contacts of the points are clean. If you didnt already check the points, open and close them with a probe on each side and look for a change of closed to open circuit(with the points removed from the plate).
Well after tinkering some more I got spark from the plug for a couple of pulls then nothing again? Not sure on that 1 but will do more 2marow. Points may still be off a little or moving maybe? I'm still not real sure on their set up and position/ timing marks. If I could post a pics I would, not sure on that 1 either.
Its about and hour to an hour & 1/2 to the border for me, maybe if I am unable to get it in the next week I may bring it to you?
Many Thanks!!!
Here is a pic of the match mark I was talking about. It should line up with a mark on the ignition plate. To post pics you have to upload them to a site like photobucket and attach the Img link to the post. Hope this helps.
I will take some pics and post them. The marks are nothing that prominent, they look like nicks in the alum.
I did get spark, now to try and start it. I am still not sure on the timing and point set up probably just luck. I do need a gas cap that will fit the old metal tank, nothing I have tried so far fits, any ideas?
Again MANY THANKS!!!
For the points you can put a .018-.020" feeler gauge between the points contacts and move the points until the plastic tab touches the peak of the cranks cam lobe, while holding the points in this position tighten the points mounting screw.
For a gas cap, you might want to remove the tank and take it to a small engine shop and see what they. I think an inch and a half or another old briggs or tecumseh cap might work. If you find one post the part number. New fuel line and a filter could also be picked up there for some cheap insurance.