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1972 Kitty Kawasaki coil oms
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- Location: Blakeslee PA
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Ok, but what do you get when you put the probes together? I understood you were getting .2 at one time. I know that dosent seem like much of a difference but the .6 (.2 from . sounds to be the resistance of your coil. Some digtal meters can show that much difference from day to day with just a temp/humidity change. Thats why I mentioned taking a reference.SlackerP488 wrote:72
Getting same readings after cleaning the points more with a little file.
Apears to me the short is comming from the coil where the kill wire is attached.
When I disconnect the wires from the little screw part on the coil and put my probes on that and ground I'm getting the .8
If you get .8 at that screw tab to ground and .2 (like you had) ground to ground (probes together) then I would say the primary side of the coil is good, the secondary side readings 5.8K also sound ok (a little high but there could be a little garbage or corrosion in the plug cap contact). What I cant figure out is why there is no change at the points. With all the wires off the screw tab on the coil, take another open/ closed readings at the points, It should show open now when the points are open (no reading). If there is a low reading in both positions(open and closed) then the points or condencer is shorted. If you remove the points from the plate and do the same open and closed test that will tell you wether of not they are good.
Pull the wire off the points and take readings open and closed. If the readings dont change open to closed then the points are shorted somewere. If they do cha
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72 my man...
When I put the probes togeather I get .1
with the condensor wire off of the points.. I get (.OL) on the meter either
opened or closed..
With the points off the unit (on work bench) Points closed .000
Open I get .OL
Well with being a plumber & using a meter I only know what to be reading
by the book, not Knowing how to use a meter per say..
I'm learning though...
Thanks 72
When I put the probes togeather I get .1
with the condensor wire off of the points.. I get (.OL) on the meter either
opened or closed..
With the points off the unit (on work bench) Points closed .000
Open I get .OL
Well with being a plumber & using a meter I only know what to be reading
by the book, not Knowing how to use a meter per say..
I'm learning though...
Thanks 72
Mike Barry
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
SlackerP488 wrote:72 my man...
When I put the probes togeather I get .1
with the condensor wire off of the points.. I get (.OL) on the meter either
opened or closed..
With the points off the unit (on work bench) Points closed .000
Open I get .OL
Well with being a plumber & using a meter I only know what to be reading
by the book, not Knowing how to use a meter per say..
I'm learning though...
Thanks 72
Weird, your pionts tested good off the plate but not on
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- Posts: 272
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
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Nope none to sell (wish I did), its a low reading but higher than a direct short showing that there is some resistance in the primary windings. If memory serves correct I would only get 1-2. So your not too far off and everything seems to be working correct now. Take a close look at the location of that burn mark, see any holes in the insulation? I would put it together and check for spark.SlackerP488 wrote:Could be me relaying it to you. My buddies brothrr in law does small engine repair. He said it was the coil. Getting the ground from there. There is a small area that has black spot on the exterior , maybe a burn mark? Do you have a coil to sell?
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The coils core is soupose to be grounded to the plate.SlackerP488 wrote:do you know if the coil, where it mounts screw on each side should have some no metal spacer/washer from the assembly that holds all the stuff.
getting a ground from there? looking at the points close up I don;t see any cracks on the brown non conductive parts
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well 72
I put back together and no spark...
The weird thing is when I hold the spark plug on the top and bottom than
hold it on the head nut I get a major zap, not a pinch a good healthy zap.
Does it need more than a nasty shock to get spark?
Am I making some kind of ground issue, it's a brand new plug
I put back together and no spark...
The weird thing is when I hold the spark plug on the top and bottom than
hold it on the head nut I get a major zap, not a pinch a good healthy zap.
Does it need more than a nasty shock to get spark?
Am I making some kind of ground issue, it's a brand new plug
Mike Barry
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
SlackerP488 wrote:well 72
I put back together and no spark...
The weird thing is when I hold the spark plug on the top and bottom than
hold it on the head nut I get a major zap, not a pinch a good healthy zap.
Does it need more than a nasty shock to get spark?
Am I making some kind of ground issue, it's a brand new plug
If the plug wire has a spark plug cap, hold just the cap and touch the plug to something metal on the engine when checking for spark. If your getting zapped that good it sounds like its working. Getting zapped like that is not good for your heart so be careful, try not to touch anything metal when checking. I sometimes use a little spring clamp to hold / clamp the plug to the engine when checking.
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