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1972 Kitty Kawasaki coil oms
Moderators: Old School, snowmobilejack
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
1972 Kitty Kawasaki coil oms
Hi Gang,
I'm new to the group and kitty cat world. Got this for my son this spring & trying to get it ready for this snow season.
I have no spark & was wondering what the omhs are for a 72 coil.
I'm getting 5.85, I saw a thread on here that a 84 was sapposed to be 11ohms. Can't find much on the internet. No mechanic here but a plumber that can kinda use a meter.
Any help would be great. appears to be no parts for this year avilable.
so before I buy a newer one figured I'd try you guys
Thanks Mike, Poconos PA
I'm new to the group and kitty cat world. Got this for my son this spring & trying to get it ready for this snow season.
I have no spark & was wondering what the omhs are for a 72 coil.
I'm getting 5.85, I saw a thread on here that a 84 was sapposed to be 11ohms. Can't find much on the internet. No mechanic here but a plumber that can kinda use a meter.
Any help would be great. appears to be no parts for this year avilable.
so before I buy a newer one figured I'd try you guys
Thanks Mike, Poconos PA
Mike Barry
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
There are two sets of windings in that coil (primary and secondary kinda like a transformer). To check the secondary you can put your test probes between the plug wire(spark plug cap) and the core of the coil. To check the primary you should disconnect the lead from the coil that goes to the condenser and put your probes on that lead and the core of the coil. You should be around 1-2 ohms on the primary and somewhere around 3-5k on the secondary. Keep in mind that the primary reading (because its so low) will really only tell you that the windings are not open (they could still be shorted internally). So whatcha got (readings)? The coil is gray in color right?
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
coil
Hey 72 I thank you for helping out. I do have the grey coil. But before I yank all that aparts again. When I hold the spark plug and put my other hand on the head and have my wife pull the cord I get zapped big time, But no spark when putting the plug or just the wire on the head.
Thanks in advance
mike
Thanks in advance
mike
Mike Barry
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
re
It's gotta be a grounding issue. Just had 1 spark with a ground wire on the frame, can't repeat it of course. when I got this sled the igniting switch was fallen apart as well as the kill switch. so in the dark with the wiring
Mike Barry
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
testing
hey 72
went over to another friends with the sled, tested the coil as you noted.
Had ground comming through to the points. So I need a coil,.
Have any laying around? let know if you have a solution to none made parts anymore.
I thank you very much for your response, and taking time to type to me.
Thanks Mike
went over to another friends with the sled, tested the coil as you noted.
Had ground comming through to the points. So I need a coil,.
Have any laying around? let know if you have a solution to none made parts anymore.
I thank you very much for your response, and taking time to type to me.
Thanks Mike
Mike Barry
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
What were the readings, Did you test with the points open or closed? What was the reading between the plug wire and ground (secondary)? Like I said before the primary reading will be low and could resemble a short. Another way to test the primary is put the meter probes between the kill swich wire and ground and pull the engine over a few times and see what voltage you have, should be around 9-12vac. Did you clean the points contacts yet?
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
-
- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
You should be getting a change, put one probe on the part of the points that moves and the other probe on the part of the points that is mounted to the plate. Open and close the points, this will test the continuity of the points to ground (should be the .2 you had before) when points are closed, And should go higher (.7-.8 like before) when the points are open. When the points are open you should have a higher reading because you are reading through the coil. If the readings stays the same then there is a problem and we can isolate it from there.
If you want, e-mail me a pic of the ignition and I will mark exactly what I am reffering to jkav72@msn.com
If you want, e-mail me a pic of the ignition and I will mark exactly what I am reffering to jkav72@msn.com
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
- Location: Ohio
SlackerP488 wrote:ok 72,
I did as you said put a meter lead on the one side of the points and lead on other got .8 either opened or closed
thanks mike
I didnt expect that!!!?, touch the leads together to get a reference (keep note of that reading) and do the same test. I just dont want to tell you to do something you dont need to do. What is the reference reading and the two other readings (open/closed)?
So far from what you are telling me (by your readings) is that there is no connection at the points when closed and you said they are clean??? Maybe you could pull back and let them snap together a couple times to see if you can get a different reading.
If I knew .8 was your reference like the other 2 readings then I would say you have a short at the points when open or a short between the the points and condencer (wire). Just dont want you to do anything more than you have to.
Its hard troubleshooting online
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- Posts: 38
- Joined: October 20th, 2005, 8:50 pm
- Location: Minnesota
Make sure the wires going to the points are hooked up on the correct side (nut side) of the plastic block on the points.
I worked on one that had no spark for a good 2 hrs and found that someone hooked one of the wires on the wrong side of that block grounding out the circuit.
Something to check......
I worked on one that had no spark for a good 2 hrs and found that someone hooked one of the wires on the wrong side of that block grounding out the circuit.
Something to check......
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
- Location: Blakeslee PA
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