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1972 Kitty Kawasaki coil oms

Kawasaki or Suzuki, assembly, disassembly, troubleshooting questions.

Moderators: Old School, harryparatestis

SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

one another note

The little black cover for the points has to melted spots. one near the

contacts area.
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:72

Getting same readings after cleaning the points more with a little file.

Apears to me the short is comming from the coil where the kill wire is attached.

When I disconnect the wires from the little screw part on the coil and put my probes on that and ground I'm getting the .8
Ok, but what do you get when you put the probes together? I understood you were getting .2 at one time. I know that dosent seem like much of a difference but the .6 (.2 from .8) sounds to be the resistance of your coil. Some digtal meters can show that much difference from day to day with just a temp/humidity change. Thats why I mentioned taking a reference.

If you get .8 at that screw tab to ground and .2 (like you had) ground to ground (probes together) then I would say the primary side of the coil is good, the secondary side readings 5.8K also sound ok (a little high but there could be a little garbage or corrosion in the plug cap contact). What I cant figure out is why there is no change at the points. With all the wires off the screw tab on the coil, take another open/ closed readings at the points, It should show open now when the points are open (no reading). If there is a low reading in both positions(open and closed) then the points or condencer is shorted. If you remove the points from the plate and do the same open and closed test that will tell you wether of not they are good.


Pull the wire off the points and take readings open and closed. If the readings dont change open to closed then the points are shorted somewere. If they do cha
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

72 my man...

When I put the probes togeather I get .1

with the condensor wire off of the points.. I get (.OL) on the meter either

opened or closed..

With the points off the unit (on work bench) Points closed .000

Open I get .OL

Well with being a plumber & using a meter I only know what to be reading

by the book, not Knowing how to use a meter per say..

I'm learning though...
:shock:
Thanks 72 :D
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

now I did replace the condensor with a new vintage one that I got on

ebay. prior chattin with you so does it sound like points?

Think that would be something at a auto parts store maybe, If the point

are bad.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

last test I had the wire off of the points.

With wire on and plug cap on plug

Closed .2

open .8

meter set on K I guess for thousands
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:72 my man...

When I put the probes togeather I get .1

with the condensor wire off of the points.. I get (.OL) on the meter either

opened or closed..

With the points off the unit (on work bench) Points closed .000

Open I get .OL

Well with being a plumber & using a meter I only know what to be reading

by the book, not Knowing how to use a meter per say..

I'm learning though...
:shock:
Thanks 72 :D

Weird, your pionts tested good off the plate but not on
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:last test I had the wire off of the points.

With wire on and plug cap on plug

Closed .2

open .8

meter set on K I guess for thousands

Now thats what you should have, something changed. was this with the concencer connected to the coil and points?
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

yep thats hooked up to all
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

with out the coil i get the

open .OL

closed .02
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

Now remember i have no kill or key switch where should the little wire from the coil go to ground or no ground. The readings i posted where with out ground
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:with out the coil i get the

open .OL

closed .02

Yep,thats what you should have.
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:Now remember i have no kill or key switch where should the little wire from the coil go to ground or no ground. The readings i posted where with out ground


No ground= run, grounded =off, all I can say is that something changed from what you had before and im kinda stumped.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

Could be me relaying it to you. My buddies brothrr in law does small engine repair. He said it was the coil. Getting the ground from there. There is a small area that has black spot on the exterior , maybe a burn mark? Do you have a coil to sell?
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

At this point im willing to change all. But no parts anywhere
Mike Barry
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

do you know if the coil, where it mounts screw on each side should have some no metal spacer/washer from the assembly that holds all the stuff.

getting a ground from there? looking at the points close up I don;t see any cracks on the brown non conductive parts
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:Could be me relaying it to you. My buddies brothrr in law does small engine repair. He said it was the coil. Getting the ground from there. There is a small area that has black spot on the exterior , maybe a burn mark? Do you have a coil to sell?
Nope none to sell (wish I did), its a low reading but higher than a direct short showing that there is some resistance in the primary windings. If memory serves correct I would only get 1-2. So your not too far off and everything seems to be working correct now. Take a close look at the location of that burn mark, see any holes in the insulation? I would put it together and check for spark.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

nope no holes just small little black circles - 2 this size of pinkie finger.

Will put back together and try.

Thanks a bunch - will report back
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:do you know if the coil, where it mounts screw on each side should have some no metal spacer/washer from the assembly that holds all the stuff.

getting a ground from there? looking at the points close up I don;t see any cracks on the brown non conductive parts
The coils core is soupose to be grounded to the plate.
SlackerP488
Posts: 48
Joined: November 5th, 2010, 2:01 pm
Location: Blakeslee PA

Post by SlackerP488 »

well 72

I put back together and no spark...

The weird thing is when I hold the spark plug on the top and bottom than

hold it on the head nut I get a major zap, not a pinch a good healthy zap.

Does it need more than a nasty shock to get spark?

Am I making some kind of ground issue, it's a brand new plug
Mike Barry
72
Posts: 272
Joined: January 23rd, 2008, 3:11 am
Location: Ohio

Post by 72 »

SlackerP488 wrote:well 72

I put back together and no spark...

The weird thing is when I hold the spark plug on the top and bottom than

hold it on the head nut I get a major zap, not a pinch a good healthy zap.

Does it need more than a nasty shock to get spark?

Am I making some kind of ground issue, it's a brand new plug

If the plug wire has a spark plug cap, hold just the cap and touch the plug to something metal on the engine when checking for spark. If your getting zapped that good it sounds like its working. Getting zapped like that is not good for your heart so be careful, try not to touch anything metal when checking. I sometimes use a little spring clamp to hold / clamp the plug to the engine when checking.
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