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1972 Kitty Kawasaki coil oms

Posted: November 5th, 2010, 2:10 pm
by SlackerP488
Hi Gang,

I'm new to the group and kitty cat world. Got this for my son this spring & trying to get it ready for this snow season.

I have no spark & was wondering what the omhs are for a 72 coil.
I'm getting 5.85, I saw a thread on here that a 84 was sapposed to be 11ohms. Can't find much on the internet. No mechanic here but a plumber that can kinda use a meter.

Any help would be great. appears to be no parts for this year avilable.
so before I buy a newer one figured I'd try you guys

Thanks Mike, Poconos PA

Posted: November 6th, 2010, 12:30 pm
by 72
There are two sets of windings in that coil (primary and secondary kinda like a transformer). To check the secondary you can put your test probes between the plug wire(spark plug cap) and the core of the coil. To check the primary you should disconnect the lead from the coil that goes to the condenser and put your probes on that lead and the core of the coil. You should be around 1-2 ohms on the primary and somewhere around 3-5k on the secondary. Keep in mind that the primary reading (because its so low) will really only tell you that the windings are not open (they could still be shorted internally). So whatcha got (readings)? The coil is gray in color right?

coil

Posted: November 7th, 2010, 6:59 am
by SlackerP488
Hey 72 I thank you for helping out. I do have the grey coil. But before I yank all that aparts again. When I hold the spark plug and put my other hand on the head and have my wife pull the cord I get zapped big time, But no spark when putting the plug or just the wire on the head.

Thanks in advance

mike

re

Posted: November 7th, 2010, 7:09 am
by SlackerP488
It's gotta be a grounding issue. Just had 1 spark with a ground wire on the frame, can't repeat it of course. when I got this sled the igniting switch was fallen apart as well as the kill switch. so in the dark with the wiring

Posted: November 7th, 2010, 7:16 am
by SlackerP488
Spark was from the plug, was nice and blue. My buddie has a 94 with the suzuki eng. Looks the same as mine, ill look at his wiring today.

Posted: November 7th, 2010, 10:09 am
by 72
There should only be one wire comming from the ignition going to the kill/ignition switch. If you disconnect it that should eliminate any possible external grounding issues.

testing

Posted: November 7th, 2010, 1:53 pm
by SlackerP488
hey 72

went over to another friends with the sled, tested the coil as you noted.

Had ground comming through to the points. So I need a coil,.

Have any laying around? let know if you have a solution to none made parts anymore.

I thank you very much for your response, and taking time to type to me.

Thanks Mike

Posted: November 8th, 2010, 9:47 am
by 72
What were the readings, Did you test with the points open or closed? What was the reading between the plug wire and ground (secondary)? Like I said before the primary reading will be low and could resemble a short. Another way to test the primary is put the meter probes between the kill swich wire and ground and pull the engine over a few times and see what voltage you have, should be around 9-12vac. Did you clean the points contacts yet?

Posted: November 9th, 2010, 10:06 am
by SlackerP488
72,'


With the points open - plug wire to ground is 5.78

I did clean the contacts on the points.

When I put the meter on the core to the condensor lead I get .7

And when putting the meter on ground & kill switch lead (small wire from coil) I get .2 thats with the condensor hooked up

Posted: November 9th, 2010, 11:51 am
by 72
If that was 5.78k, seems a little high but could be good, and you do have a little more resistance on the primary (.7) that strait ground (.2) going through the points. Im not convinced its the coil.

Posted: November 9th, 2010, 1:22 pm
by 72
Try this, put a probe on each side of the points and open and close them , do you still get the change from .2 to.7 ?

Posted: November 9th, 2010, 5:32 pm
by SlackerP488
72

Where is the core of the coil. not under standing what that means.

Dude I owe you a case of beer! Tnx

Posted: November 9th, 2010, 6:06 pm
by 72
Its the steel part of the coil that the windings wrap around. I guess you could use any grounded part if the coil is mounted. It what you would use if the coil is removed. You dont owe me anything. Beside, if you do end up needing a coil, it wont be cheap.

Posted: November 10th, 2010, 11:09 am
by SlackerP488
72

ground to points

open .8
closed .8

kill wire to points

open .2
closed .2

coil out of unit plug wire to core 5.85

Posted: November 10th, 2010, 1:03 pm
by 72
You should be getting a change, put one probe on the part of the points that moves and the other probe on the part of the points that is mounted to the plate. Open and close the points, this will test the continuity of the points to ground (should be the .2 you had before) when points are closed, And should go higher (.7-.8 like before) when the points are open. When the points are open you should have a higher reading because you are reading through the coil. If the readings stays the same then there is a problem and we can isolate it from there.



If you want, e-mail me a pic of the ignition and I will mark exactly what I am reffering to jkav72@msn.com

Posted: November 11th, 2010, 3:23 pm
by SlackerP488
ok 72,

I did as you said put a meter lead on the one side of the points and lead on other got .8 either opened or closed

thanks mike

Posted: November 11th, 2010, 5:14 pm
by 72
SlackerP488 wrote:ok 72,

I did as you said put a meter lead on the one side of the points and lead on other got .8 either opened or closed

thanks mike


I didnt expect that!!!?, touch the leads together to get a reference (keep note of that reading) and do the same test. I just dont want to tell you to do something you dont need to do. What is the reference reading and the two other readings (open/closed)?

So far from what you are telling me (by your readings) is that there is no connection at the points when closed and you said they are clean??? Maybe you could pull back and let them snap together a couple times to see if you can get a different reading.


If I knew .8 was your reference like the other 2 readings then I would say you have a short at the points when open or a short between the the points and condencer (wire). Just dont want you to do anything more than you have to.
Its hard troubleshooting online

Posted: November 11th, 2010, 7:04 pm
by Old School
Make sure the wires going to the points are hooked up on the correct side (nut side) of the plastic block on the points.

I worked on one that had no spark for a good 2 hrs and found that someone hooked one of the wires on the wrong side of that block grounding out the circuit.

Something to check......

Posted: November 12th, 2010, 12:18 pm
by SlackerP488
72

Getting same readings after cleaning the points more with a little file.

Apears to me the short is comming from the coil where the kill wire is attached.

When I disconnect the wires from the little screw part on the coil and put my probes on that and ground I'm getting the .8

Posted: November 12th, 2010, 12:21 pm
by SlackerP488
Old School

Yep there on the nut side away from the points bracket. Isolated from little brown things.

Thanks